Friday, November 1, 2013

Some Few Odd Images from Lourdes

These past two weeks I've been in Lourdes. I've ensconced myself in a rather threadbare but very cheap hotel, with balcony, ensuite bathroom, and a very friendly Kabyle staff. Until last Sunday, the last day of the pilgrimage season (which extends from Easter through the feast of Our Lady of the Rosary, which is to say last weekend this year) there was a nightly rosary procession at 9 pm and then vigil mass in the grotto of Mirabelle where the apparitions occurred every evening at 11 pm, that I joined in praying.

It's been an excellent retreat, all told.

But I haven't been much in the mood for blogging at all, despite your divers requests to post. Tonight, I have been planning the next week's itinerary, have bought some tickets, and laid plans that will take me eventually to Maryam Ana in Ephesus, if all goes well. I'll try to post much more frequently now, as I will be moving about more or less every other day this coming week or so.

One good - or utterly horrible, really, depending as you look at it - excuse I have for not blogging is that I managed to destroy my laptop by dumping a drink on it when I first got here, which means I am left resorting to my iPad to get online. Sorting and storing pictures is thus much harder, and since most of what I've taken here has been crap, most likely due to my having jacked up my camera and wide angle by dropping it (nay, smashing it wantonly) upon the hard marble floor ein Sacré Couer a couple weeks ago.. well..

I'm now happy merely to have anything electronic left to post anything at all. These crap images that follow were culled from thumbnails. I hope they amuse all the same:

interior upper basilica

view of grotto from above
the royal keep guarding the pass
The Grotto of Mirabelle
the basilica by night by the grotto
the evening procession from above
Slovenia! Or Slovakia! Or Croatia! Or whatever!
the candle alley

I'll only note in closing that I think - no exageration - that probably 80 - 90% of priests i've seen here have been wearing cassocks, something that prior to experience of the Legionarries would have made me ecstatic, but now merely makes me quizzical and mildly amused.

 

 

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Rue de la Grotte, Lourdes, France

 

Saturday, October 12, 2013

Photo Essay: Notre Dame de Chartres

After quitting Paris, I made my way to Chartres, to see the famous cathedral there.  I arrived at night, and took a few pictures of the exterior illuminated:





Next day, after sleeping in a big ivy patch under the low hanging branches of a great pine tree on the lawn of the Eure et Loir departmental prefecture (I had to hop their fence, and then got yelled at in the morning by some woman bureaucrat from the window of her office, when jumping back out onto the street) I went back and took some very mediocre images of the interior.

The inside is being restored, and maybe a tenth of the interior marble - besmirched with centuries of candle smoke and other dirt - has been bleached its original white, most of that in the sanctuary and front of the nave:


Note the contrast between the restored and dirty marble.



Plaque memorializing Peguy's pilgrimage here.

The cathedral is beautiful, a huge interior space with incredible stained glass.  Because of the dirty marble and cloudy day light, the church was darker than I expected it would be.  I still was awed, and sat there for three hours, said my chaplet and then just gaped, drinking it in.

I then did the tour of the place. There are these amazing wooden relief statues on the choir screen, figures in late medieval garb, carved in the 16th century, also being restored:


Restorer at work.
 And these are the famous flying buttresses:



I lit two candles at Chartres, the first to Ste. Therese here,
And another before ND de Cartres, her statue being on that pillar on the left there.



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Friday, October 11, 2013

On My Last Day In Paris..

I caved and did the trite, expected, touristy thing, and finally walked out along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower with Brady, this Australian guy I'd met:  








Note that my contrarian bona fides, while now grossly sullied, are nevertheless still somewhat intact:  I never did make it to the Arc de Triomphe or the Champs-Elysees.  Nor have I ever fallen in with that bovine hoard endlessly trampling the Louvre.  I also absolutely refuse to ever visit Versailles.

I am a pilgrim, no tourist, see.



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Thursday, October 10, 2013

Photo Essay: Le Basilique de St. Denis

One of the patrons and thematic figureheads gracing this blog (see the sidebar) is St. Denis, or Dionysius the Areopagite, patron Saint of France and by legend the first bishop of Paris and (pseudo) father of the Church. His shrine is in the north of Paris, and is also the burial crypt of the kings of France.

The Headless Bishop.
Legend has it that St. Denis was executed during the persecutions of Nero, being beheaded by axe. After his head rolled from his shoulders, St. Denis is said to have stood up, scooped his head up, and walked about two kilometers from Montmartre ("hill of the martyr," now the site of the basilica of Sacre Coeur and one of the best parks and most romantic neighborhoods in Paris) to the site of the present basilica dedicated by his name.

This is the awesome figurine of St. Denis I picked up at the basilica for 10 euro..
Here are some of the shots taken there, this past week:




This Austrian girl Marianne who became my travel buddy this past week.
Hirsute.


St. Anthony of Padua



Marianne at the cafe opposite the basilica
And the candle.




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Wednesday, October 9, 2013

La Place de la République: Paris in the Mist..

I walked through la Place de la Republique the other evening, and they had strung these hoses that sprayed mist all along the length of the plaza.  The entire place was wreathed in mist, making for a really incredible atmosphere.  There's a large statute that looks a lot like the Statue of Liberty, representing the Republic, there, that is quite impressive.

I took some photos:






Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Back to Paris..

So, after a "leaky filling" and root canal and five weeks interrupting my earlier sojourn, I am yet once again in Europe.  I arrived last week, where I spent one night rough out at Charles de Gaulle..

You can walk out one of the side entrances, where airport employees go to smoke,
where's this hidden nook where you can pitch your bivy alongside the wall of the airport tramway,
and nobody will know you are there..
where there's this here view to enjoy as you drift off to sleep..

I came into Paris the next day, and have been staying at a hostel here since. I've been having good fun, and have seen many of the tourist sights I've been snobbishly skipping every time I've passed through Paris the past couple decades.  I'm based in the China town here, and have found one of the best Vietnamese restaurants I've ever eaten around the block.

Tomorrow, I begin walking toward Chartres. More images and such to come.



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