Showing posts with label Meso-America. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Meso-America. Show all posts

Friday, August 17, 2012

Into El Salvador




Today I finally did something I have been meaning to do all this week.  I took the minibus on the hour long 30Q roundtrip ride up to the Salvadoran border, and walked across for 15 minutes.  You know, just to say I've been there.  (That's one more country to my list Mr. Coady!)  Unfortunately, because of the CA4 customs agreement, I entered on my Guatemalan visa, and got no nifty Salvadoran stamp for my passport, even though I asked very nicely, por un recuerdo, you know?  But they are rigid bureaucrats there, and refused me.  But they stamped me out and back in on the Guatemalan side, which is almost as good..  

The minibus driver on the way back drove like a bat out o' hell, which drove me nuts - he'd take sharp corners going at least twice as fast as my old man nerves could handle.  It began to rain, and whenever he stopped to pick a new passenger up (they pick anyone who hails them down along the way up) he'd slam on the breaks unnecessarily stressing both his stupid van and my heart simultaneously.  I was sure one or both would give out before we got home here, in a blur of hydroplane wipeout ending with us careening violently into one of the many stream gorges by the way, but we somehow all survived. 

I'll just add that I am oddly wearing the same damn clothes in this image as I was in the last I posted of myself.  That's because I only have three sets of clothes in rotation here (well packed, or something thereabouts.. clotheswise, anyway) and I had my laundry done the other day..  Just thought I'd call unecessary attention to that fact.



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Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Como Siempre, Me Porte Como Quien Soy..

Okay, aside from the fact that in my last post I claimed it was the feast of Saint Dominic, when in fact his feast is not August 4th, but this coming Wednesday, August 8th ..

(an error due to my not checking the calender and thinking that the 4th of the month is always the feast of a cool and somehow important saint to me personally - see how October 4th is St. Francis, November 4th is St. Charles Borremeo (my patron), December 4th is St. John Damascus, January 4th is St. Elizabeth Anne Seaton, and August 4th, is um.. yeah, St. John Vianney.  Not Dominic.. Uh.  That's what lack of due dilgence born of laziness gets you..  I ought take this opportunity and write up one of my many cuentas de los domini canes.. But I wouldn't want to fall prey to overweening blogger ambition or anything.. )

I have to say that while I have been busy with a dozen different things, in addition to my taking full advantage of the shrine here - I've been to confession, mass daily, and have spent a bit of time there praying - I have yet to really sit down and crank out the finished essays I have been gestating here.  One of the things I have been doing these past two days is organizing my computer and hard drives (3 of them, nearly a terrabite of data) so that I know where everything is, and everything is hopping and popping the way it ought to softwarewise..  Major aspect of this is my photo and video library, nearly a decade's worth of accumulated material scattered everywhere, with duplicates and multiple caches and libraries - a total nightmare.  I have excellent software to help me address all the various gnarly issues, but it still takes a while to run it all.   Over 300G of images takes a while to process, vet, rename and properly organize, see..

When I have finished, say sometime tomorrow,  I will have a mother load of material ready to deploy.  And I fully intend to lay it on you, my dear public.   Even if there are only a dozen of you out there that may care, I am committed.  I will not disappoint.  

At the moment however, my main library is being sorted for duplicates, and I cannot touch it.  So the grand illustrated meditation on my sojourn in Guatemala that I am preparing will have to wait until tomorrow evening. 

As a sop for your ravening curiosity though, I give you this wee appetizer.  The most interesting of all possible subjects, a picture of myself before the basilica here in Esquipulas.  As I say, more coming right soon.  Enjoy:

Soy asi, me porte como quien soy.



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Sunday, August 5, 2012

Cuentas de los Perros del Señor.. Que Viene Muy Pronto..


Today is the Feast of Dominic de Guzman, founder of the Order of Preachers.  And thus it is one of my feasts, as I am by my association with Providence College a friend and disciple of the Fathers. 

I have a few stories to tell of that relationship, one of them of the afternoon I spent at the House of Studies in DC on this very day several years back.. But not tonight.  For while I am no longer in Antigua, I am still in Guatemala.  I have resolved to begin writing in earnest when I am finally free of this amazing country and her people, whom have given me occasion for a deep retreat these last few months.  The retreat comes to its end this week, and now I shall be bent on adventure, exploits and great feats.. of blogging, at the very least.

So, I've come to the national shrine here at Esquipulas for one last long weekend before crossing south into Honduras, Tuesday.  I will post a few final thoughts on Guate before then.  When I am in Honduras, I intend to write much more, and about many multifarious things..

Tonight, though, I am tired and have only in me to beg Saint Dominic's intercession, and bid you all dulces sueños, que sueñes con los santos ..




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Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Upon the Votive by Our Door

I have yet to describe or comment much upon the habits and customs of our house here, owing defense due the privacy of my own.  Tonight I invade this near silence sharing this lone image, of the shrine near our front door.

After dinner (circa 8 o'clock) the lights in the common areas go off.  There is little spare income for electricity here, you see.  

The lone light you see when you come through our front entrance after dinner is a votive candle illuminating two icons, those of Our Ladies of Guadalupe and Fatima:





Stuck in the corner, almost out of sight, but with flowers before them.  

I, of course, like and approve this custom very much.   It is yet one more of many things that makes me feel well and at home here.  

Our Ladies of Guadalupe and Fatima pray for us, and bless our homes.  Ruega por nosotros Virgencita. 


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Location:
8 Calle Oriente,Antigua Guatemala,Guatemala


Friday, June 22, 2012

Photographic Vignette, Streets of Antigua Guatemala: May, 2012


 

 

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Location:8 Calle Oriente,Antigua Guatemala,Guatemala




 

Church of San Francisco, Antigua Guatemala: May - June 2012

I've been scandalously derelict posting here. Not from lack of available material, but rather from being preoccupied with other things. As these coming two weeks are very likely the end of my time here, I am heretofore resolved to post daily, both material from Antigua and a few essays that I have had gestating for a while.

My current 90 day visa runs out on July 4th, which while I am going to get an extension, that date also is the day my parents plan on flying down to visit and join me upon a grand tour of the rest of the country. That will be the coda to my beautiful time in Guatemala, a interlude twixt this idle and my coming push south.

In any case, tonight I post some images I've taken the past two months of the wonderful church - el Templo de San Francisco - that is just across the street from my house here. It's a Franciscan mission that was established in the 16th century, and the building - though ruined repeatedly by earthquakes, and rebuilt many times over - is one of the oldest European structures in the Americas. The current facade dates from the 18th and 19th centuries, and is quite beautiful in a colonial baroque manner..

The tomb of the local saint, San Hermano Pedro, is off the front of the nave. The pilgrims flock here. There are many daily masses, all well assisted, and daily confessions heard for several hours every afternoon. There are fiestas with bands and hoardes of people every significant feast day (meaning several times a week) and the courtyard has some of the best cheap eats vendors in Antigua. There are about a dozen Franciscan priests and brothers here, and many other religious from various orders (the Missionaries of Charity I spotted were visting here, and there are currently three brothers from Fr. Groeschel's Friars of the Renewal from the Bronx hanging out here, too..) that frequent the place.

I needn't tell you that the grace of this church being found upon my doorstep (something that I had not planned, but like Antigua in every other sense just sort of happened to me) is one of the main reasons I have been here this long..

Because it, and the people who attend it, are beautiful. Look, see:

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I'll post some images of the interior (which cameras are putatively banned from, but I'll sneak a few of on the sly this coming week, anyhow) soon.

SS Francis, Hermano Pedro, and Our Lady of Poverty, pray for us.

 

 

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Location:8 Calle Oriente,Antigua Guatemala,Guatemala

 

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

U.S. Men's National Team Ties Guatemala 1-1 in World Cup Qualifier



I'd bet practically no one up there in Gringoland knows that. But believe me, tonight more or less everyone in Guatemala does.

(Side note, I'm confused as to how come Blogsy's insisting on highlight "tonight" and "esta noche" as if hyperlinked - I've tried to fix this, but can't figure it out..)

Anyhow, I probably should have gone into Guatemala City, less than an hour away, to give our boys some support tonight. My other American housemates did. The boys, they need it. This is a point too few gringo jingoes appreciate, but our men's national team playing anyone anywhere is almost always a big deal to the locals in that country. Especially in the Muslim or third world, and most especially in Latin America. It's often a type of low grade warfare, that I've never heard reported on in our press.

Here's a clip showing how they have to deploy riot police to protect the U.S. team while entering the stadium, along with some fan shenanigans:



The upshot is that to get any good reporting on our team, it seems you pretty much have to go to the British press for it.

Here's the Guardian on what it's often like for our boys when playing on foreign soil:

Tough Crowd:

Well, as with any time the USA travel for a Central American fixture, it's one of those games that on paper they're expected to win, but which in practice is the sort of game people have in mind when they talk about the "grind" of qualifying.

That "grind" tends to start the minute the team get off the plane. Central American trips by the USMNT tend to be fraught affairs. Previous trips to the region have resulted in a Honduran newspaper printing the floor plan of the US team hotel for the benefit of "fans", a band assembling in the lobby of another hotel, and a previous trip to Guatemala City itself was marked by a local radio station hosting a "promotion", complete with loudspeakers, outside yet another hotel window. These trips have also presumably resulted in around 22 terrible Yelp reviews attached to the hotels in question, shortly thereafter.

And when the US reaches the pitch it's not likely to get much friendlier. The last time these two sides played here in a World Cup Qualifier, in 2008, there were two red cards, seven yellows, and an array of airborne objects that ranged from US players to batteries being thrown at them. The consensus is that the US are likely to be goaded tonight and while Jamaica may be the tougher footballing side they face in this phase of qualifying, this tie may be the sternest test of character.

Klinsmann is fairly phlegmatic at the prospect of what awaits: "It's hostile in Tehran in front of 110,000, it's hostile in Istanbul with 60,000 -- actually you can't even see the field before the game for 10 minutes for all the smoke. It's normal; this is what soccer brings to the table. I think it's just awesome. We are here because we want three points, and we have to take it seriously."


This report, along with a live blogging of the game (which was only available outside of Guatemala on $30 pay per view) can be found here.

The USMNT blog also has some good dirt on the game and historic rivalry.

This match was the second qualifier. The first the USMNT beat Antigua and Barbuda (as in the Caribbean islands, not this my here Guatemalan home, Antigua Guatemala) a sloppy 3-1. The USMNT began playing Guatemala in 1977. "Los Chapines" as they are affectionately called here, won the first four matches ever played, but have never again won since 1988, ever since US Soccer began to be taken more seriously at home. The upshot is that after the game tonight the U.S. is 12-4-6 all time against Guatemala, and 12-0-6 since 1988.

Compare this to Mexico, which leads the U.S. 30-15-12, and has never lost against the USMNT at home, as in not ever.

I decided not to go into the city, and also skipped going to the bar down the street that was showing the game. Probably should have, since I had a tallboy of beer wagered on our guys with Rafael my Guatemalan housefather here. Since it was a tie, the bet is null. I have a long history of betting on the U.S. Men's Team, dating back to a bottle of raki I won on our guys when they played the Turks in Izmir that year, because it's too much fun not to get into it with people when I'm abroad. They could care less about our U.S. sports obsessions, and know nothing about the NBA, NFL or MLB, but soccer gets people excited everywhere..

Excepting at home, of course. Naval gazing ethnocentric self obsession at it's most disappointing, really. If we're going to get all obsessed about grown men playing with balls like schoolchildren, we might as well do it with everyone else, you know? The fact that we have the gall to call our baseball championship the world series when we only invite one foreign team to compete (Toronto) is just pathetic. Why not invite the Japanese, Mexicans, Cubans and Dominicans to field their own teams? Because Boston and New York might lose to the Dominican Republic or Tokyo is how come.

So anyway, while I sat the game out here tonight in my room, I can still report that I could hear at least three televisions carrying the game from within say 100' of my window.

And that when Guatemala scored their goal in the second half, the town erupted in faint distant cheers, and probably a half dozen different sets of fireworks went off in the distance. I'm not kidding. It was awesome, really. I had to laugh.


For while I'm glad the U.S. team didn't lose (I have just enough national pride left in me to mildly care) I'm also somehow pleased that Guatemala didn't lose. I've grown especially fond, and so a bit protective of my dear little Guatemaltecos, you see.. I'm rooting deeply for them. Because while probably less than 1 in a 100 of Americans will even be aware of the game tomorrow, 99 in 100 Guatemalans will be. The fact that they at least did not lose to the great gringo satan is tonight salve for many a Guatemalan soul.. And for that I'm very glad.

Signing off,

Oye todos mis compadres, por esta noche se puede llamarme,

- Carlos Bocanegra Cortes




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Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Volcán de Agua (Hunahpú), Antigua Guatemala: Well Past 2 a.m., May 29, 2012

Can't sleep..

In lieu of that, I give you, all my beloved, esta imagen del primer volcan aquí, as seen from this here my bedroom window:

 

 

 

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Location:8 Calle Oriente,Antigua Guatemala,Guatemala

 

 

 

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Song of the Day: Mercenary Song, Steve Earle.

 

 

Lyrics:

Me and Bill there we both come from Georgia
Met Hank out in New Mexico
We're bound for Duranqo to join Pancho Villa
We hear that he's payin' in gold
I guess a man's got to do what he's best at
Ain't found nothin' better so far
Been called mercenaries and men with no country
Just soldiers in search of a war

CHORUS
And we're bound for the border
We're soldiers of fortune
And we'll fight for no country but we'll die for good pay
Under the flag of of the greenback dollar
Or the peso down Mexico way

When this war is over might go back to Georgia
And settle down quiet some where
I'll most likely pack up and head south for Chile
Heard tell there's some trouble down there


 

 

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